Dryer Won’t Spin? 12 Common Fixes, from Easiest Check to Pro Repair

A dryer that won’t spin can quickly pile up the dirty laundry, frustration. Many issues, from a simple loose plug to a clogged vent, are easy to diagnose and sometimes fix yourself.

In this guide, we walk you through the most common reasons your dryer drum has stopped turning. We follow the best troubleshooting flow: start with the quick, easy, and safest checks first, and then move on to the more complex part replacements.

Safety First: Crucial Warnings

Before attempting any repair or diagnosis that involves opening the appliance:

1. Unplug It: Always disconnect the dryer power supply.
2. No Gas: If you have a gas dryer, repairs that involve the gas line (like working on the igniter or valve) must be handled by a certified professional.

Phase 1: The Quick, Easy, and Free Checks (1-3)

These are the simplest issues to check and don’t require any tools or internal access.

1. Is the Dryer Unplugged or the Breaker Tripped?

This sounds obvious, but it’s the most common problem. Your dryer uses a lot of power, and any surge or loose connection can trip a breaker.

Diagnosis	Solution
Symptom: No lights, no sound.	Solution A: Check the wall outlet. Is the plug firmly seated? If the cord is loose, push it back in.
Symptom: The dryer is dead or has suddenly stopped mid-cycle.	Solution B: Head to your home’s circuit breaker box. Look for a switch that’s halfway off or completely off. Reset the breaker by flipping it completely off and then firmly flipping it on.

2. Is the Door Switch Working?

A safety switch on the dryer door stops the drum from spinning when the door is open. Even with the door closed, the dryer won’t start if this switch has become bent, broken, or stuck.
Checking involves pressing the start button and lightly pressing the door. Your door switch is broken and needs to be replaced if the dryer turns on for a short time.
The Fix: This switch usually needs to be replaced; however, you may be able to bend a plastic clip back into position. It’s a simple, inexpensive do-it-yourself solution.

3. Is the Drum Overloaded? (Especially for Older Dryers)

The initial rotation may be stopped if the drum is overfilled because the weight of the wet clothing may put too much strain on the drive belt and motor.

Solution:

Take out around one-third of the clothes, reorganize the load, and attempt to run the dryer once more. Always follow the load capacity recommendations provided by your manufacturer.

Phase 2: The Core Mechanical Problems (4-7)

These issues account for the vast majority of non-spinning dryers. You’ll need to open the dryer to diagnose them.

4. The Drive Belt is Broken or Worn

The drive belt is a lengthy rubber band that links the motor to the drum. The drum won’t turn if it snaps, but the motor will run.

Symptom:

The drum doesn’t move, but you can hear the motor buzzing loudly.

How to Check:

Try manually rotating the dryer drum after opening the door. The belt is unquestionably broken if it spins very smoothly and without resistance (feels loose).

The Solution:

It is necessary to replace the damaged belt. The most popular do-it-yourself dryer repair is this one. (We advise being prepared with the appropriate tools and a manual.)

5. Worn Drum Rollers or Axles

The drum rollers are tiny wheels that assist the drum move smoothly and maintain its weight. They spin on shafts called axles. Friction wears them down or makes them seize up over time.

Symptom:

When turning the drum, there is a loud thumping, squeaking, or grinding sound. The drum can have trouble spinning.

How to Verify:

Rotate the rollers by hand after opening the dryer enclosure. They must be replaced if they wobble, stick, or have flat areas. It is advisable to replace all axles and rollers at the same time for the lifespan.

6. Idler Pulley Failure

The idler pulley is a tensioner wheel that keeps the drive belt tight around the motor and drum. If this pulley seizes or breaks, the drive belt will slacken, and the motor won’t be able to grip and turn the drum.

• Symptom: Similar to a broken belt, the drum won’t turn easily, but you may also hear a squealing noise as the pulley rubs or a thudding from a loose belt.
• The Fix: Replace the pulley assembly. Make sure the new pulley has the right amount of tension on the new belt.

7. Seized Drum Bearing

The back of the drum is supported by the drum bearing. The motor cannot overcome the extreme friction created by this worn-out bearing, which causes the drum to freeze up (get totally stuck).

Symptom: Turning the drum by hand is very difficult or impossible. There could be a deep scratching sound of metal on metal.

The Fix: This component needs to be replaced, and since it’s frequently found far in the dryer’s back, it’s a more involved fix that can call for a professional service call.

Phase 3: Electrical, Heat, and Motor Issues (8-12)

These often require a multimeter for testing and are best left to a professional, as they involve high-voltage components.

8. Tripped Thermal Fuse

A safety feature that keeps your dryer from overheating and catching fire is the thermal fuse. The motor circuit’s power will be permanently turned off if the fuse blows due to very high temperatures.
• Symptom: There will be no sound, no turning on, and the dryer will be totally unresponsive.
• The Caution: A blown fuse is not the cause; it is a symptom. It typically indicates a malfunctioning heating element or a clogged vent (see #10). It is risky to replace the fuse without addressing the underlying overheating issue.

9. Faulty Start Switch

• The motor and drum movement are started by the start switch. The motor won’t get the electrical signal if it malfunctions.
  Symptom: While the control panel and drum light may function, the Start button remains inoperative.
  • The solution is to replace the switch after checking it with a multimeter to ensure power continuity.

 

10. The Clogged Vent (The Overheating Risk)

Airflow is restricted by a badly clogged exhaust vent. The dryer overheats as a result of having to run hotter and longer, which sets off the thermal fuse (#8) and stops the motor from operating.

• Check by unplugging your dryer. Unplug the dryer’s back and the vent hose from the wall. Look for a significant buildup of lint on the hose and both ends.
• The Solution: Remove all of the lint from the wall duct and hose using a long brush or shop vacuum. For efficiency and safety, this maintenance step is essential.

11. Motor Failure (Strained or Burned Out)

• The machine’s motor is its central component. Age-related burnout or mechanical problems like a jammed blower wheel or stuck drum bearing might strain it.
  Symptom: The dryer abruptly shutting off and not starting up again, a loud buzzing sound that never contacts the drum, or a strong burning smell.
• The Solution: Replacing a motor is among the most costly and time-consuming fixes.

12. Drum Not Spinning, But No Heat (Different Problem)

• If the drum spins perfectly fine but your clothes are still wet, you have a heating issue, not a spinning issue. This points to a faulty:
• Heating Element
• Cycling Thermostat
• Thermal Fuse (Yes, a blown fuse can sometimes stop only the heating circuit, not the spin circuit, depending on the model).

When to Call a Professional

• You should always call a qualified Dryer Repair in Calgary if:
• You suspect a motor issue or need to work on a gas line.
• The problem involves a component that requires electrical testing (multimeter).
• You’ve replaced a part (like the thermal fuse) and the issue immediately returns—this signals a deeper, underlying electrical or mechanical failure.
• Understanding these points can save you time and money. For most people, fixing the drive belt or clearing a simple door switch is a satisfying, low-cost victory.